METAL BLACKENING

METAL BLACKENING & Conditioners

CARRS METAL BLACK : (all usually in stock)

There are several different types of Metal Black and each works on a particular metal to produce a black or brown patina. Rates vary.

Although each type is named after a common metal some are better than others on different grades or alloys of those metals and please note too that different alloys of the same base metals will often perform quite differently.

There are for example 7 common grades of nickel silver, at least 12 varieties of brass & 35 of aluminium.

Thoroughly cleaning the metal immediately before blackening and working it into the surface with a stiff-ish brush often helps you to get an even coating. It is important NOT to over-blacken as flaking may occur.

Immediately you achieve the level wanted, immerse in water and agitate to stop the chemical reaction. Further improvement is often achieved by burnishing after the blackened item has been dried.

CARRS Black for Brass:

CARRS Black for Nickel Silver:

CARRS Black for Steel and Whitemetal:

CARRS Black for Solders:

CARRS Black for Aluminium:

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TOP TIP

SUPER REALISM ON BRASS OR METAL FIRE & SMOKEBOXES OR METAL WAGONS

Blacken the firebox below the footplate and the smoke-box area with CARRS metal blacks. Initially, just do it as per instructions, then when it is finished, do the following.

These areas always have less than perfectly regular paint when in service for a while... so, using your prototype as reference, add extra blackening with a small stiff brush, stippling it on in odd places and leaving until it starts to really blacken and is close to flaking.

Neutralise with water without knocking off the flakes & let dry.

Now paint as normal and when its dry pick at the flaky parts with a toothpick until they flake or drop off leaving a blackened surface.

If brass etc. shows, re-blacken, add subtle rust and burnt iron dry brushing to the paint gaps and your loco will start to take on the look of a hard working machine!

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